Perhaps the most defining experience of the US/Iran match happened a few
days before the game. We were hanging out outside the Brazilian cafe
near the Arch de Triumphe watching the Brazilians samba to celebrate
their convincing win over Morocco. Every few minutes a car would drive
by covered in Brazillian flags carrying about 15 people inside, and
hanging out the windows. As usual, many of us were wearing US team
garb, and a couple of Iranians came up to us to say hello. They didn't
speak English or French, and we didn't speak Persian, but regardless, we
could still have a conversation about going to the match in Lyon. I
can't imagine this hapenning anywhere else but at a World Cup.
We took the early morning TGV from Paris to Lyon to spend the day in
Lyon before the game. Lyon is most well known for its role as
headquarters of the French resistance during WWII, and for (so they
claim) the best food in all of France. Walking around Lyon was somewhat
surreal, as everywhere we went cars would honk at us approvingly, and
people would applaud. It seems most of the Lyon public was rooting for
the US at least.
Most of the Iranians we met were friendly - I think supporters from both
sides were acting overly friendly because of the "supposed" political
tensions. Hardly any of the Iranian supported actually lived in Iran.
Almost all were people who had left Iran before or during the 1978
revolution, and currently living in Europe or the United States. If
there was any political tension, it was between the anti-regime
ex-patriate Iranians (about 90% of them) and the few actual Iranians.
The stadium was a far ways from the city center. There was a bar near
the stadium owned by an American that was the main American base before
the game. The wives and families of the American team were meeting
there before the game, and there was a crowd of several hundred watching
the Argentina/Jamaica game and singing patriotic songs. For the street
outside, it seemed like the US would be well-represented inside the
stadium. Of course, we didn't realize that all the Iranian supporters
were already in the stadium, and many of the Americans were still trying
to get tickets.
The game itself matched pretty closely with what a Frenchmen has told me
he thought before the game - an exciting game between two "small"
teams. The US attacked well early, and Brian McBride had a good attempt
go off the post. About 30 minutes in, Jaime standing next to me
mentioned he thought the US defense was looking tired. I thought they
could make it to half time. They didn't.
Watching the Iranian goal unfold right in front of us was a horrifying
experience. You could see a perfect cross coming in, while 3
out-of-position defenders were not marking an open player, and Kasey
Keller misjudging the cross and not being set before the shot. The US
fought valiantly for the rest of the game, but lacked the creativity and
skill to break down a very organized and inspired Iranian side.
Paul Hayward's Daily Telegraph Story
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After the game, the joy on the faces of the Iranian supporters was
something to behold. It seemed like this was the best thing that had
happended to Iran in twenty years, and maybe it was. Although we were
most distressed after the game, almost all the Iranians were gracious in
their victory.
We had to rush back to the train station to catch the late TGV back to Paris. We arrived at Gare du Lyon, Paris at around 2am, and a group of us decided it would be theraputic (not to mention easier than trying to find a cab) to walk home. We took a fair bit of ribbing from the Paris streetlife on the way back, but seeing the sun rise over the Arch de Triomphe did help put the loss in perspective. |
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